Stroll La Rambla, the city’s rambling Atlantic coastline dotted with white-sand beaches, green parks and waterfront restaurants. The area doubled for Havana in Michael Mann’s 2006 film “Miami Vice.”
Sip Mate, the hot bitter green tea that’s the unofficial national drink, under the palm trees in Plaza Independencia, the city’s main square. Drink it out of a hollowed gourd with a metal straw, like the locals.
Eat in the Mercado del Puerto, the enormous seaside market that actually serves more beef than fish. Try the local favorite, pamplona—grilled meat, vegetables, spices and cheese rolled into a wrap (www.mercadodelpuerto.com.uy/).
Shop the cobblestoned Ciudad Vieja (Old City), lined with antique and artisan shops like Manos del Uruguay, which sells gorgeous handmade wool sweaters and more (www .manos.com.uy). Listen for spontaneous street performances of candombe, the African-inspired local drum music.
