Step one: Start with the perfect potato, preferably one from Klamath Falls, Ore. (Russets work, too.) If they’re hard like apples, let them rest a week. If they’ve sprouted eyes, you’re too late.
Step two: Use good peanut oil. Safflower or corn oil will do, but forget canola oil. “I think it’s weird,” says Waxman.
Step three: Soak peeled potatoes overnight in cold water. The next day, cut them into pieces and soak again for two to three hours.
Step four: Heat two cups of oil per potato to 250 degrees. A deep pot with an old-fashioned french-fry basket is best; the oil should fill a third of the vessel. Cook fries for eight minutes. Cool and refrigerate for up to 12 hours.
Step five: Cook at 350 degrees for two or three minutes until golden.
